DOC Vineyards along the Douro River

The Douro Valley in Portugal is rich in history, romance and stunning scenery, and is home to one of the most distinctive wines in the wine world—Port. This fortified wine is revered for its ability to age as well as having an unequaled range of flavor and style profiles, which makes Port a valuable addition to any well-rounded wine cellar. Every wine tells a story, and the story of Port is quite unique!

The History of Douro and Port
Declared a World Heritage Site in 2001, archaeological finds date winemaking in the Douro back to Roman times. However the development of fortified Port wine occurred during the second half of the 17th century. In 1678 Britain declared war on France and blockaded French ports, and in doing so created a wine shortage in England. In 1703 Britain and Portugal signed the Methuen Treaty that established the supply of cloth from England in exchange for Port wine, among other things.

Stimulated by the increased demand and higher prices, the production picked up and British wine trade boomed in the Douro region. Port started out initially not sweet but a full-bodied dry red wine known as “blackstrap” in 17th century London. The addition of “aguardente” (a Portuguese sort of brandy) was after fermentation to the barrels in order to stabilize the wine for shipment to England.

No one knows the exact circumstances of how the fortified Port we know today was created for the first time. One story is told of a wine merchant in Liverpool who sent his sons to Portugal in 1678 to find a wine source. They reportedly found a monastery in Lamego where the abbot was adding brandy to the wine during rather than after fermentation thereby producing a sweeter port-type wine. The style took off, as the richer, sweeter style found a great following.

Many of the British wine trade established branches of their companies in Oporto, with shippers building warehouses or “Port lodges” in nearby Vila Nova de Gaia to blend, age and store the wines. Resin-lined goat skins were replaced by wooden barrels which were transported down-river on shallow wooden “barcos rabelos” sailboats. Each port lodge still owns a barco rabelo, kept for nostalgia and for the annual mid-summer Barco Rabelo race that takes place around the lively Eve of Sao Joao celebrations (Sao Joao is Saint John, the patron saint of Porto).  If you are thinking of traveling to Portugal, this would be a fabulous time to visit!

Traditional Barcos Rabelos with iron bridge by Eiffel's pupil in the background, Oporto

Regional Information
In 1756 a royal charter defined the production region for Port wine in Douro, becoming the world’s third region to have a formal demarcation, preceded only by Chianti in 1716 and Tokaj-Hegylia in Hungary in 1730. The Douro has Portugal’s highest classification as a Denominacao de Origem Controlada (DOC), and although known primarily for Port production, the area produces non-fortified wines as well.

Around 50 miles east of the city of Oporto are the three Douro sub-regions of Cima Corgo, Baixa Corgo and Douro Superior. The vineyards are dramatic and ultra-scenic, terraced on steep granite and schist-ladened hillsides overlooking the Douro River.

The westernmost Baxio Corgo is the smallest region and due to its proximity to the Atlantic ocean it gets the most rainfall. As a result is the most fertile and abundant tending to produce the lighter wines like ruby and tawny ports. This area is responsible for almost 50% of all Port made.

Up river is the Cima Corgo (Cima means top, or summit) surrounding the town of Pinhão. Here, where rainfall is significantly less – about 28 inches a year – is where most of the high quality tawny, LBV, and Vintage port is made. Surrounding the town of Pinhão, are most of the famous wine growing properties or quintas. This region accounts for around 36% of the Port produced.

The last region is the largest of the three sub-regions, the Douro Superior which extends to the Spanish border. Here is the most arid and the least developed. Only about 13% of all port is produced here. This is a region to watch, as it will be interesting to see how it progresses.

Varietals
A large number of grape varieties are grown in the Douro region, most of them local Portuguese grapes. The top varieties for Port are the Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesca, Tinta Barocca, Tinta Roriz (also known as Tempranillo), Tinta Cao and Tinta Amarela. For white Port Gouveio (which is likely Verdelho), Malvasia Fina and Viosinho are the main varietals. The vines roots grow very deep down through the schist fissures to find water in natural reservoirs, and are usually harvested between September 15th and October 15th.

Touriga Francesca

Styles of Port
According to the Institute of Douro and Port Wines (IVDP) Port can be divided into two major categories (Ruby or Tawny) according to the manner by which they are aged (bottle-aged or cask-aged).

Ruby Style: These are all bottle-aged indicating a shorter time aging in cask or tank and then the majority of maturing in the bottle. The winemaker generally aims to maintain the fruit and strength of a young wine. This is the type of wine that you will find in the following categories:

Basic Ruby Port: This simple, young, non-vintage style is aged in wood for about two to three years before release. If labeled Reserve or Special Reserve, the wine has usually aged about six years.

Vintage Character Port: Premium Ruby blended from higher-quality wines of several vintages and matured in wood for about five years.

Crusted or Crusting Port: The best non-vintage Ruby Port, a blend of high quality vintages from two or more years, aged up to four years in cask and at least three years in bottle. Like Vintage Port, it throws a deposit or crust, hence the name.

Late-Bottled Vintage Port (LBV): Made in lighter years from a single year, bottled four to six years in wood after harvest. Designed to be full-bodied like a vintage port style but tends to be somewhat lighter and consumed much earlier because of the late bottling process.

Single-Quinta Port: From a single-vineyard and can be either a classic Vintage Port or a a special release from an undeclared vintage. Generally these are as accessible as LBV because after bottling, these are stored until more or less ready to drink. Single-Quinta Ports are aged longer after bottling than LBVs.

Vintage Port: By law must be bottled within two years of the vintage, from the best grapes of a single harvest. This is a very dense and heady style, and without the extended cask-aging to integrate tannins, ten to twenty years of aging is recommended before Vintage Port is ready to enjoy. Vintage Port should always be decanted because of the formation of sediment.

Tawny Style: These are cask-aged indicating aging in wooden casks or barrels then bottled relatively shortly before release at the point they are ready to be enjoyed. These tend to be slightly less sweet with a lighter, nuttier style and color—hence the name of Tawny for the amber tone that frames the wine. A great style as they are more versatile with food, and usually have a fine and silky feel. This type of wine you will find in the following categories:

Basic Tawny: The most versatile of the Tawny styles, which are blends aged usually at least three years in wood, up to many years depending on the aim of the winemaker. Tawnies have a very fine texture and style that can be served as an aperitif, during and after dinner with a much wider range of cuisine than other Ports.

Aged Tawny: (10, 20, 30 and 40 years old) Blends that are racked over a period of ten, twenty or more years where the oldest 30 to 40 year old Tawnies will show a character somewhat like liqueur. A voluptuous style with an added range of nuances such as coffee, spices and caramel due to the extended cask aging.

Single-Quinta Tawny Port: From a single quinta (estate) vineyard, and can be a blend with an indicated age or Vintage-dated.

Colheita Port: Cask-aged Tawny Port from a single-vintage, which is sometimes confused with Vintage Port because of the vintage year being indicated. The style would never be confused with a Vintage Port because Vintage Port is plump and deep in fruit, the Colheita more refined and silky from the minimum of seven years of barrel aging with a completely different style and range of flavors.

Aside from these styles, there is a very small amount of white and rosé Port produced, commonly used as a mixer in cocktails or alone as an aperitif. These are made dry, off-dry and sweet and they are recommended to be served slightly chilled. There are very few uncommon age-distinguished or vintage white Ports, which when aged can take on a color that is similar to the lightest Tawny.

Photo by Michael Melford

Serving Port
Both wood aged and bottle aged port wines are most often served at cool room temperature (64° to 68°F). Tawny and Aged Tawny Port may also be served slightly chilled in warmer weather.

Vintage port should always be decanted, so for pointers see our blog post on how to decant here.

The ideal Port glass is slightly smaller than a typical white wine glass and holds about 5 or 6 ounces with a tulip or tapered shape that is neither too narrow nor too wide. As with other wines, do not fill the glass more than 1/3 full.

Depending on the style of Port and your personal tastes, there are many food pairing options—from classic to innovative and many in-between. For some pairing ideas, see here.

When you enjoy authentic DOC Port from Portugal, you are experiencing one of the world’s classic and unequaled wines!  Cheers!

Sip your spirits and cure your cold, but I will take Port that will cure all things, even a bad character. For thee was never a Port drinker who lacked friends to speak for him.
William Makepeace Thackery, English novelist, (1811-1863)

The splendor of St. Emilion viewed from one of its crown jewels, Pavie Macquin

“Is this the hanging tree?” I asked.

I stood on a grassy path flanked by vines on both sides, staring up at a tall tree with large branches spreading wide.  Oak? Elm? I wasn’t sure, and it didn’t really matter.  All that mattered was whether this was THE tree, the one that – according to legend – the townsfolk of St. Emilion used for executing criminals many years ago.

We had broken free from our tight tasting schedule in order to take up this quest.   That Tuesday, our first day of 2010 tastings at Primeurs, we did Cheval Blanc and the Rolland Collection at Le Bon Pasteur, followed by Michel Rolland’s consultancies at Chateau Soutard and then Stéphane Derenoncourt’s consultancies at Chateau La Gaffelière.   Wednesday brought a full morning of tasting biodynamic wines at Ch. Fonroque followed by a cross-river haul to take in the wines of St. Julien, St. Estephe and Pauillac at Ch. Branaire Ducru, and then a dash to Ch. Lascombes to sample Margaux before the day’s tastings closed.  We began Thursday morning early with the St. Emilion tasting at Ch. La Couspaude before heading back to the Left Bank for Graves and Pessac-Leognan – both rouge and blanc – at Ch. Malartic-Lagravière, and then back again to La Gaffelière to finish tasting Stéphane’s wines and chat with some of our producer friends there.

If you’re counting at home, that’s over 500 wines tasted in three days, not counting bottles we enjoyed during our dinners or at the late-night producer parties we attended. This kind of professionalized indulgence is par for the course during Primeurs week, but still, by Thursday afternoon we needed a break that didn’t include swirling, sniffing or sipping.“No, that’s not it. I thought it might be, but now that we’re here it doesn’t seem right,” Fonda said, scanning the horizon. “The hanging tree is clearly visible from inside the city of St. Emilion, so I think it must be the one over on that ridge.”   She pointed to another tree across a block of vines that stood at the very edge of the plateau, its branches stretched starkly against the afternoon sky.

It was Fonda’s idea that we should embark on this expedition. A little adventure would do us some good, she reasoned – clear our minds, lighten our spirits, cleanse our palates even.

It was a good idea. Not only did it give us a break from the tasting grind (a thoroughly delightful grind, but a grind nonetheless), it got us out into the beautiful vineyards surrounding the medieval hilltop city, those rolling hills of vines that make St. Emilion one of the most picturesque places in the world.

Pavie Macquin’s ancient, beautiful cellar is unmistakeable

But the clincher was this: these weren’t just any vineyards we’d be roaming. The hanging tree stood on the estate of the great Chateau Pavie Macquin.

Ahh, Pavie Macquin. *Sigh.* Give me a moment while my heart skips a beat or two, allow me a minute to regain my composure.

You have to understand – for me, only Cheval Blanc rivals Pavie Macquin for the title of Favorite Winery on the Right Bank, and the race is probably too close to call. I’m not alone in that judgment: Fonda feels the same way. Our other travel companions Hélène and Tony are likewise enamored with the wine. And Stéphane, who began his winemaking career at Pavie Macquin almost twenty years ago and still makes the wine there, affectionately calls the property “my baby.”

While the allure and quality of many other top names in Bordeaux come and go depending on the vintage, year in and year out Pavie Macquin manages to maintain the kind of depth, complexity, and freshness that makes it one of the greatest ever expressions of Merlot. This is thanks to the heady combination of Stéphane’s sensitivity and devotion as a vigneron, and the property’s spectacular terroir. We’re talking old vines planted in some of the best limestone/clay soils in the region on one of the appellation’s highest plateaus. Slope, exposure, subsoil, density, microclimate – all near-perfect, all geared toward creating the most sublime expression of St. Emilion terroir that nature can muster.

I had tasted Pavie Macquin many times from a number of vintages young and old, out of both barrel and bottle, in Bordeaux and at home. I knew all the facts and figures. I had tasting notes galore. But I had never done the most important thing – I had never stood among the vines or walked upon the ground that was responsible for this cherished wine. Now was the time: we were off to find the hanging tree – a whimsical excuse for a sacred pilgrimage to the mecca of St. Emilion.

We loaded into our rented Mini Cooper convertible, me behind the wheel, Hélène to my right, and Fonda and Tony perched behind us with rumps on the rear hood, feet on the back seats and hair whipping in the wind. Our traveling mascot Mycat came along too, even though Tony was threatening to use up one of the toy cat’s nine lives by hanging it on the tree – you know, just to see if the limbs were still sturdy after all these years.

What a sight we must have been – our tiny topless vehicle overstuffed like a clown car, puttering up and down the steep, narrow cobblestone streets of St. Emilion and then, once we emerged from the city, zooming around the sloping countryside curves a hair too quickly for my mother’s taste.

The temperature was perfect – 75 degrees, the bright sun to keep us warm and a light breeze to keep us cool.

There was only one problem: We knew where we were going – but we didn’t know how to get there.

We didn’t have a map or directions of any kind, but Fonda and Hélène had been to the tree before on a previous Bordeaux trip, so I assumed finding it again would a breeze. Not so. It had been several years since their previous visit to the tree, and Pavie Macquin’s cellarmaster had guided them there on that occasion.

The old “lick-your-finger-and-see-which-way-the-wind-is-blowing” method wasn’t working very well, at least initially. So we had to make our way via trial and error. This took a while, as we zipped up one bumpy road that dead-ended into a block of vines, then another that led to a farmhouse, then a third that took us back to where we began.

But I must confess, casting about here and there was far more fun than if we’d known the way. At one point, we found ourselves off-roading on a vine-lined path we thought would lead us to Pavie Macquin. Instead, it led us to a grizzled local man, armed with a rather vicious-sounding dog, who seemed none too pleased to find us on his property. Rather than face our foe, we practiced a time-honored survival technique: frantic retreat. I’m proud to report that I can handle a stick shift as effectively in reverse as I can in third gear – at least when my life is at stake.

Of course we eventually found Pavie Macquin. Once you’re there, you wouldn’t confuse it with anywhere else in the world. It’s unmistakable: those thick gnarled stumpy vines, so perfectly tended yet wild and free; the green grass growing between the vine rows; the stunning views of the surrounding countryside – vineyards as far as the eye can see – and the spire of the St. Emilion cathedral at the top of the ancient city across the valley; the old, rustic stone farmhouse that houses the cellar behind its famous red door; and, of course, the silhouette of those majestic trees edging the property.

Most of all, there’s a beauty to that place which, once you’ve experienced it, settles into your soul in a way that’s kind of hard to explain, except perhaps by analogy. There are other places that have this sort of effect on a person – the Swiss Alps, the Grand Canyon, Yosemite Falls. Once you’ve seen them – once you’ve breathed in the icy mountain air, or gazed across the vast canyon into the setting sun, or felt the cool spray of the tumbling water – you carry that particular sensation of beauty with you always.

It’s even better with wine. Because when you’ve been to a vineyard whose wine you love, you can see, smell and taste the product of what you’ve experienced – the spirit of the place, captured in a bottle. Thanks to my time in the vines of St. Emilion, whenever I drink Pavie Macquin – or any good Right Bank wine, especially one made under Stéphane’s care – my mind is filled with the memory of feeling the rough old gnarled vines, of scooping the top soil into my hands, of surveying the pitch of the vineyard sloping down to the valley below with a panorama of St. Emilion in the distance. The beauty in my memory rubs off on the wine itself, enlivening my experience with it, as I am taken back to that moment walking among those vines, searching for that hanging tree.

We did finally make it to the real hanging tree, of course. And as expected, we engaged in some historical pageantry during which Mycat gamely took one for the team (I’m happy to report that he seems to be enjoying his new second life much more than his first). Doing so was meant to be a bit of fun (or a bit of sadism, depending on your affection for toys), nothing more. Yet somehow, enacting an old-fashioned hangin’ gave our experience even more meaning. It sounds silly, I suppose. But for us it was a picture of the history of this place, a reminder that for centuries, while eras and governments came and went, while people lived and – literally – died on this plateau, the vines of St. Emilion gave forth their bounty, harvest after harvest producing wine that has gladdened the heart of generations.

Fonda and Hélène survey the hanging tree with the city of St. Emilion in the background

As we left the tree, I hiked back to our car with wistful reluctance. Like all of us, I drink a great many wines whose vineyards I never get a chance to visit. That’s life. But now, having experienced the vineyards of St. Emilion, and having witnessed how it affects my enjoyment of wine from that region, I am reminded of how critical it is to get as close as possible to the source of the wines I love to drink, so that I can love drinking them all the more.

I can’t go to every vineyard myself, but with a little bit of effort, I can do the next best thing: I can seek out the reflections of the wine’s winemaker, who works the land day in and day out. And I can borrow memory from those who have been to the region themselves, searching for their own hanging tree.

Pay no mind to the rope on the left

Grand Canal at Sunset

It’s no secret Montesquieu Winery is fond of exploring wine regions off the beaten track, inspired by the thrill of adventure and discovery as we seek new and exciting sources for our international portfolio of Montesquieu Wines.

That being said, we also relish the wealth of experiences one finds traveling to classic destinations such as Paris, Rome, New York, London, Barcelona and the like. Even though these cities are not wine regions, and not off the beaten track, the opportunities to be immersed in fine food and wine are great with an abundance of world-class dining and top-notch wine lists, plus in many cases wonderful wine regions nearby!  Add the museums, shops, and cultural treasures galore, and you have all the ingredients that most consider essential to the art of living well.

High on our list as a must-visit classic destination is Venice, Italy. Founded in the 5^th Century, this UNESCO World Heritage Site has one of the richest and most distinctive cultural legacies in the world. Once one of the largest maritime republics in the world, the entire lagoon—spread over 118 small islands—has maintained rare authenticity. There is no mistaking Venice for anywhere else in the world, with its interconnected maze of bridges and canals boasting stunning architecture and vistas that leave an indelible impression!

Mask for Carnival Photo by D Hammza

Venice is known by many names including La Dominante (the dominant one), Serenissima (one of the names from ancient times meaning the most serene or lovely), City of Water, City of Masks (from the long history of mask making for Carnival each year beginning the first day of Lent), City of Bridges, the Floating City, City of Canals and the Queen of the Adriatic.

Water, art and romance collide creating a stunning display of world-class examples from the Byzantine, Romanesque, Baroque and Renaissance periods—and more! There is seemingly no end of museums, basilicas, exhibits and galleries featuring works by some of the world’s greatest artists including Giorgione, Titian (who studied under Bellini), Tintoretto (Titian’s pupil) Veronese and many others.

Venice is known for contemporary as well as traditional international happenings. As a vibrant center for the arts, every two years Venice hosts La Biennale, one of the most prestigious cultural institutions in the world founded by Venetian mayor Riccardo Selvatico in 1895. This year is a Biennale year, which started in early June and will run through November, featuring world-renowned events, exhibits, workshops, concerts and benefits presenting art, architecture, cinema, dance, music and theater. Highlights include the International Art Exhibition, Venice Film Festival, and International Festival of Contemporary Music.

Horses of San Marco

For accommodations try the aristocratic Luna Hotel Baglioni (a former Venetian palace) in the heart of the city, perfectly situated to visit some of the most famous attractions nearby including the must-see Piazza San Marco and Basilica, the Rialto Bridge, Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace) and the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Also lovely are Villa F and Il Palazzo , both Bauer Hotels by hotelier Francesca Bortolotto Possati. Villa F is both sumptuous and contemporary, with a huge, inviting garden that is a welcome expanse away from Venice crowds. Il Palazzo is the epitome of Old-World elegance situated on the Grand Canal, adorned with priceless antiques, restored trompe l’oeil ceilings, silk wall coverings, Murano glass chandeliers and many other exquisite touches.

Villa F the Bauer Hotel Group's Newest Hotel in Venice

For dining don’t miss the relaxed ambiance at Cip’s Club in the Hotel Cipriani, on the canal facing Palazzo San Marco with alfresco or indoor options, as well as unmatched sunset views. Also fun is Naranzaria, named for the former orange market which occupied the same space. Local chiceti (like Spanish tapas) are fun, with lighter fare including sushi and plenty of local wines and a great view of the Rialto Bridge. Across from the popular Caffe Florian in Piazza San Marco is a great find called Il Quadri, recently taken over by two-star Michelin chef Anthony Alaimo. The excellent cuisine and elegant ambiance overlooking the square will surely be a highlight of your Venice dining experience.

15th Century Glass Bowl

Also well-worth visiting is the Glass Museum on the island of Murano and the Lace Museum on the island of Burano. The Glass Museum houses works from the Roman period first through third century AD, as well as the largest historical collection of Murano glass in the world dating from the fifteenth to the twentieth centuries, many of which are world-famous masterpieces. Some local shops on the island feature interesting glass making demonstrations The Lace Museum has a collection of more than two hundred rare and precious pieces that chart the development of lace making in Venice from the sixteenth to the twentieth century.

Punto in Aria

Thankfully for wine lovers Venice is in the Veneto region, home to many delightful wines including Bardolino, Prosecco, Valpolicella, Soave, Bianco di Custoza, and many more including intriguing IGTs.  Not only will you have a wealth of local wine selections in Venice area restaurants, but also many other Italian and European wines, too. You’ll be in striking distance to key wine country in Veneto which makes exploring the local wine regions from Venice a breeze. Many day trips or longer are available to Treviso, Padua (Pedova) or Verona, for example, with excellent tours that include vineyard estate visits, tastings, gourmet meals on Lake Garda, walking tours of medieval villages and cooking classes—all sure to delight any wine enthusiast!

Allegrini Estate Valpolicella, Verona

As Robert Mondavi often said—attributing the origin to Greek and Roman culture—“Even more importantly, it is wine, food and the arts. Incorporating those three enhances the quality of life.”   A trip to Venice meets this criteria and much, much more!

Buon Viaggio!

Flag of Veneto

The Uco Valley in all its splendor

Spend a little time in the Uco Valley in Argentina, and it doesn’t take long to realize that  not only is Michel Rolland one of the most accomplished winemakers of our time – he’s also a true visionary.

That’s a bold statement, perhaps.  But once you’ve seen Bodega Rolland firsthand, situated at an elevation of 3,300 feet in the shadow of the snowcaps of the Andes, the conclusion is inescapable. The proof of Michel’s vision is everywhere you look.

You see it in the in the vineyard’s rocky, arid soils where the vines’ roots burrow deeply in desperate search for nutrients.  You see it in the rugged, barren terrain that surrounds the vineyards as in every direction, offering no evidence of life beyond the occasional desert flower.

Bodega Rolland -- an iconoclastic design focused entirely on wine

You see it also in the iconoclastic yet elegant winery he built, streamlined to maximize efficiency and cleanliness, every detail designed to ensure the highest quality of wine production.   No faux pillars here, no Tuscan trellises or medieval turrets, no architectural tricks or expensive sculptures or grand banquet halls.  Unlike so many other new world wineries, Bodega Rolland isn’t about tourist attraction or flashy features.  No, Bodega Rolland – just like its vineyards – is entirely about the wine itself.

And that makes sense.  Because the vision that brought Michel to the Uco Valley, 60 miles south of Mendoza, over a decade ago was rooted in his belief that this seemingly forgotten land was some of the most exciting undiscovered terroir in the world. He wanted to tap into the immense potential of this region to craft wines that are both world-class in quality and distinctive in expression.  He wanted to forge a vibrant winemaking community, built by colleagues and friends with a shared love for this stunning region.  He wanted to take this Argentine desert and create something entirely new.

We caught our first glimpse of this vision when having dinner with Michel in his home in Fronsac.  He described his concept for a 2,000-acre estate covering Uco Valley’s best soils that would be owned jointly by multiple vintners, each responsible for their own vineyards and winery on the property – a new idea in the wine world.  We learned how this concept became a reality through sheer determination, overcoming obstacles and naysayers, and how Michel was able to inspire six colleagues to join in this adventure with him (investing $60 million along the way!).

And we heard all about Michel’s personal portion of the estate – the Mariflor vineyards.  These vines are the crown jewel of the property, located at its highest point closest to the mountains – and they are the source for Michel’s dream of creating an Argentine “grand vin”, one that can shine brightly alongside the greatest wines of Europe while retaining its own identity.

Michel and Montesquieu Winery CEO Fonda Hopkins -- united by a common passion

We were inspired. We at Montesquieu Winery share Michel’s pursuit of excellence in wine.  We also love to explore new regions and uncover new terroir.  And like him, we are unafraid to dream big, to cast a vision that seems unattainable and then inspire others to join us in the journey.

I suppose our passion was as infectious as his was, because before we knew it, we had agreed to do a project together in his Uco Valley estate.  We would work together to create a special range of Montesquieu wines, crafted by Michel from some of his property’s top vines.  The goal would be to make wines equal to the best in the world – with each expressing its terroir and varietals with purity, power, and elegance.  The Malbec would be the quintessence of Argentine wine, the standard for excellence in the region.  The Merlot would rival the top wines of Pomerol and St. Emilion, made by one of the world’s foremost Merlot masters.  And the blend, composed of tiny lots from Michel’s top terroir, would harness the best of each varietal to form a cuvée of unparalleled depth and complexity.  These wines would be the kind of “grand vin” originally envisioned by Michel, the founding purpose behind Michel’s Argentine venture.

Michel's vision: He took this desert...

Of course these projects don’t happen by themselves.  We would visit the property, both to witness the result of Michel’s vision firsthand and to work on the wines with Michel, to identify the vines and barrels that would form the source of these special wines.  Fonda Hopkins and Hélène Mingot, accompanied by Stéphane Derenoncourt, did just that last December, collaborating with Michel to ensure we had just the right blends in place for our wines.

We returned to the Uco Valley again with some of our Montesquieu wine brokers last month to spend a long weekend with Michel’s team.  Michel’s head winemaker Thierry Haberer hosted us, and we spent several days walking the vineyards tasting grapes off the vine and taking part in harvest.

...and created this oasis.

While there, we also checked in on the progress of our Montesquieu wines.  We weren’t disappointed with what we found.  Thierry brought us into the chilly barrel room in Bodega Rolland, where the 2010s were aging in French barriques.  Ever so carefully, Thierry removed the bung from each of our barrels, siphoned out a small taste of the wine, and poured it into our glasses.

We tasted.  And we smiled.  Although its all-important aging is not yet finished, each wine was showing the kind of promise that we imagined when our partnership with Michel began.  The aromas were intense and perfumed, the textures were soft and velvety, and our palates were graced with generous levels of tannin and acidity wound tightly in flavors of pure, concentrated fruit.

The most exciting moment was when we tasted the 2010 Montesquieu blend, which has finished its barrel aging and is now resting in tank where the flavor components are integrating and harmonizing.  This experience is a little bit hard to describe, but let’s put it this way:  It showed us why Michel set out on this project in the first place.  It illustrated in liquid form the value of dreaming big, the possibility of achieving greatness in unexpected places.

Immediately, we knew that we had struck gold in our partnership with Michel.  Something special was happening in this desert land, in these rugged vineyards, and we were a part of it.

Thierry Haberer pulls barrel samples of the Montesquieu wines we're making with Michel

We decided to name the 2010 blend Juntarse, which means “to join together” in Spanish.  For us, it represents what’s possible when people with common passions partner to pursue a worthy goal, no matter how lofty. It represents the spirit of adventure and discovery that drew Michel Rolland to Argentina, and drew us there too.

And it bears the fruit of Michel’s vision, which is now on its way to fulfillment.  We’re privileged to be able to join him in bringing our clients a taste of that vision.

The Uco Valley, Mendoza

Argentina was destined for wine greatness—with terrain that the world’s best wine growers and wine makers have fallen in love with, accentuated by the vibrant cultural mix of Spanish, Italian and Amerindian influences. Wine lovers have responded to this region and its star Malbec with fervor, which has spurred even more investments in the area with an expansion of varietals along with it. It is not surprising that Argentina is now the 6^th largest producer of wine in the world, and the largest producer in South America.

Mendoza

The heart of Argentina’s wine country is Mendoza, known by locals as “la tierra del sol y del vino” or “the land of sun and wine” where the country’s most famous wines are produced. Mendoza is both the name of the province and its capital city which is the case for all of the provinces in the country. The name Mendoza is a Spanish surname of Basque origin meaning cold mountain, an appropriate name as Mendoza sprawls along the eastern foothills of the dramatic Andes Mountains which are snow-capped all year long.

Unique Terroir

The terroir of the region has the irresistible allure of a siren’s song—featuring low humidity, ample sun, low-fertitlity soils, and cool mountain nights. Mendoza accounts for nearly two-thirds of the country’s entire wine production, and is the world’s only major wine region above three thousand feet of elevation.  Mendoza lies in the shadow of Mount Aconcagua, the highest mountain in the Andes as well as the Americas, and this force acts as a barrier from the Pacific rain which creates an intense and ideal microclimate.

Harvest Time

One of the most impressive historical features of the area is the advanced system of irrigation channels which was developed and built by the indigenous Huarpes. Utilizing the snow-melt fed Mendoza River, this simple flood-irrigation technique has been used for centuries in Mendoza. Both furrow and drip-irrigation have become more common for various reasons, including restriction of water due to less snowfall, new vineyard districts, and desire to improve efficiency.

The well-drained alluvial soils were formed millions of years ago by rivers and glaciers and are layered with sand, rocks, pebbles, lime and clay. This combination of less-fertile soil, intense sun, and cool nights results in naturally low yields of ripe and concentrated fruit which gives wine makers nature’s best to craft intense and age worthy wines with a sensual and magical range of personalities with distinct sense of place.

Mendoza’s Subregions

Mendoza City was founded by the Spaniards in 1561. Each sub-region within Mendoza has its own climate, soil and history, lending unique signatures to their respective wines. There are twelve sub-regions with the most prominent being Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, Maipú and the Uco Valley. These areas have attracted top wine makers and growers from all over the world, and feature mostly the highest quality and oldest vines in the country.

Agrelo

Agrelo is a small sub-region 20 miles south of Mendoza City, based around a township of the same name which borders Luján de Cuyo. The average altitude of Agrelo vineyards is 3300 feet above sea level with alluvial soil types. The varietals suited to the region include Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Pinot Gris and Torrontes are also produced, and are gaining in popularity and recognition for individual style.

Luján de Cuyo

Southwest of Mendoza City with vineyards all along the glacial Mendoza River. The purity and low salinity of this river are huge benefits to wine growing here. The area is known particularly for Malbec, but also Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Torrontes, among others including Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc.

Maipú

Situated southeast of Mendoza City and along what is called the Upper Mendoza River, just east of Luján de Cuyo. The vineyards are between 2000 and 3500 ft elevation and are irrigated by small canals fed by the glacial snow melt of the Mendoza River. Malbec, Chardonnay and Tempranillo are suited for the climate and are very well known here.

The Uco Valley

Although part of the Mendoza region, the area is quite distinct spanning 45 miles long from Tupungato in the north to San Carlos in the south, and 15 miles wide following the Tunuyan River that flows north-south, from its origin high in the Andes. The varietals that shine here are Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Torrontes.

We at Montesquieu Winery have had Argentina on our radar for years, carrying wines from from Mendoza, but also other up and coming regions such as Patagonia and San Juan. Our relationships continue to broaden, bringing unique and exciting opportunities our way for expanding our exclusive international portfolio of Montesquieu Wines.

We will keep you posted with developments in the beautiful and historical Mendoza, as well as other regions that are up and coming such as Salta and San Rafael.  In addition, we will share some of the flavors and textures of Argentine cooking, with its vibrant blend of Italian, Spanish and Amerindian influences—centered around the national obsession with premium beef and grilled meats.  Stay tuned!

The Heart of Italy, Umbria

Known by locals as “il cuore verde d’Italia”, or the “green heart of Italy”, Umbria is a land full of lush rolling hills, ancient medieval villages, distinctive regional wines and delicious traditional cuisine, all set in a gorgeous backdrop rich in art, culture and history.

Bordered by Tuscany, Marches and Latium in the heart of the country, Umbria is the only region in Italy to be completely surrounded by Italian land. Although long overshadowed by its more famous neighbor Tuscany, the wine world is starting to take notice of Umbria and its many treasures, much in the same way that the nearby Marche region has gained attention recently.

Some of Italy’s loveliest, most historical towns are here including the iconic Assisi, grand Orvieto, bustling Perugia, and medieval Gubbio, not to mention the charming hilltop villages of Spello, Bevagna, Montefalco, Panicale, Todi, Spoleto and so many more.

Smaller villages such as Bevagna and Montefalco are great bases to explore Umbria if you prefer avoiding crowds. They also have the advantage of being centrally located to reach the wine producing areas.

If you want a livelier, more cosmopolitan atmosphere try Perugia which has an active, youthful feel as a result of the university community, which includes many exchange students. Also there is a well-known jazz festival in July and Chocolate festival in October—along with the many year-round attractions including art galleries, monuments, museums, restaurants, chocolate makers (including the famous Baci chocolates), and Etruscan ruins—the list goes on!

Do not miss Deruta for exquisite “maiolica” hand-painted ceramics, with the tradition dating to the Early Middle Ages. Although maiolica is produced across the Mediterranean, Umbrian maiolica is distinctive, with its designs reflecting the Renaissance period. Deruta is the undisputed capital for ceramics in Umbria, with a museum and artisans featuring open workshops, but you will also find some others in the surrounding areas.

Umbrian Wines at a Glance

This is a very exciting time for the region, with an array of Old World styles and indigenous grapes intermingling with the New World IGTs and their modern varietals.

Major varietals: Sagrantino, Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Montepulciano, Trebbiano, Grechetto, Verdello and Malvasia

Other varietals (for Umbria IGT)s: Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Barbera, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris

DOCs: Orvieto, Torgiano, Montefalco, Colli Altotiberini, Colli Amerini, Colli Martani, Colli Perugini and Colli del Trasimeno

DOCGs: Sagrantino di Montefalco and Torgiano Rosso Riserva

Regional Information

Area under vine: 27,600 hectare

Climate:  similar to Tuscany with cold rainy winters and dry sun-filled summers, with the exception of the area around Lake Trasimeno and Lake Bolsena, where a mild, Mediterranean climate is present

Soil Composition:  calcareous clay and sandy soil that extends over much of the region

To accompany the wonderful regional selection of wines, you will find delectable local ingredients including Tagliolini pasta with white truffle, beef or lamb with black truffle, wild boar sausages from Norcia, Salami and Prosciutto from Norcia, white figs from Amelia, Pecorino cheese, tiny lentils from Castelluccio, and wild chestnuts.

One of the nicest features of Umbria, no matter what time of year, is the feeling of intimacy-you won’t feel overwhelmed with hordes of tourists.  This lends to a pace that allows you to savor each moment.

We at Montesquieu Winery wish you travels that inspire wonder and allow a sense of discovery along the way.  If you are planning a trip to Italy, we highly recommend Umbria with its amazing history, art and culture that perfectly complement the delectable local food and wine!

View of Dordogne River from Chateau de Beynac

With En Primeur week just around the corner in Bordeaux April 4-8, it seems a good time to share one of our favorite regions for wine lovers who relish exploring a bit off the beaten track—the Dordogne in the Aquitane region of southwest France.

This charming area, just inland from Bordeaux, is a treasure trove of remarkable beauty, historical sites, lovely cuisine and the interesting lesser-known local wines which include Bergerac, Monbazillac and Pécharmant. If you base your stay in the area surrounding Bergerac, you can easily reach the En Primeur tastings in Bordeaux. Just follow the road west that hugs the Dordogne and you will pass through Côtes de Castillon and St. Emilion. These right bank gems—with their delectable wines and rich history—are not to be missed, so make sure to allow ample time to explore!

View Over St. Emilion

In 1790 the region became Dordogne, formerly known as Périgord, which most locals still use. The area has four parts: Périgord Verte named for the lush verdant hills around Nontron, Périgord Blanc so called for the abundant exposed limestone in the areas surrounding Perigeux, Périgord Pourpre appropriately echoing the color of grapes in the wine region surrounding the town of Bergerac, and Périgord Noir named for its black truffles and dark walnut trees in the area centered around Sarlat.

View of Chateau de Beynac from Dordogne River

Medieval villages dot the valley, the most striking of which are dramatically perched in and above towering limestone cliffs overlooking the Dordogne River, like Beynac-et-Cazenac and Le Roque-Gageac. You have to see it to believe it! The new National Museum of Prehistory is high in the cliffs in the village of Les-Eyzies-de-Tayac, which houses the most important paleolithic collection in France. Lascaux, now closed to the public, has been painstakingly replicated in Montignac with its “Lascaux II”.

There are many activities in the region including cycling, canoeing, barge tours, hiking, horseback riding, water parks—the list goes on! There is no shortage of sightseeing options here, with many historical castles, cathedrals, fortresses, museums and the like to delight the mind and all your senses.

Aside from the more popular tourist attractions, there are endless low-key local pleasures in the myriad villages. Exploring local markets called ‘marche’, one will discover stunning produce from the pastoral farmlands, along with many delicacies such as assorted cured meats, foie-gras, walnut confections, and black truffles.

The larger market in the Dordogne capital of Perigueux is noteworthy, with all of the above plus the famous ‘pâtés de Perigueux’. The Saturday market in the meticulously restored Périgord Noir village of Sarlat is also very special. When the working gas lamps light the night, it truly takes your breath away.

Marche in Sarlat

There is nothing like experiencing local wines and cuisine while fully immersed in local culture and history. If Bordeaux is on your list of must-visit places, then we at Montesquieu Winery recommend you don’t miss this gem and its many magical charms.  Enjoy all that Bordeaux has to offer by way of the less-traveled Dordogne!

Architectural Treasure Santa Maria della Rocca in Offida Pecorino

Imagine yourself on a white, sandy beach admiring the view of a rocky coast dotted with quaint fishing villages and weathered trading posts.  Looking away from the water, your gaze turns skyward to catch a glimpse of the green, rolling hills covered with patches of Cyprus trees, ancestral vines and olive trees.  These picturesque hills seem to protrude straight out of the Adriatic.  Everywhere you look as you stroll leisurely through these coastal towns, you see a population committed to preserving a local culture centered on the pleasures of food and wine.  This is the essence of the Marche region, an unspoiled Italian treasure brimming with culinary delights and a kaleidoscope of wine styles – red and white, traditional and modern.  Wine critics and writers have long ordained this micro-region the ‘next Tuscany.’  However, a closer look reveals this magical food and wine culture is happy just being itself, and is just the kind of hidden treasure that Montesquieu loves to share with fellow wine lovers.

At any given point along the Marche region’s 110 miles of scenic coastline, you are certain to be entranced by the region’s devotion to food and wine.  Just a two-hour train ride from Florence, the coastal town of Ancona is the region’s epicenter; its 11 DOCs and 2 DOCGs fan out around this capital city.   Rosso Conero, the region’s most important red wine region, literally wraps itself around Ancona.  Its best vineyards are nestled high among the hills above the town and deliver a dense, juicy wine from   Montepulciano and Sangiovese.  To the south the sophisticated wines of Rosso Piceno offer a sultry, feminine expression of the aforementioned varietals.  In the steep hills surrounding the town of Ascoli Piceno in the eponymous province is the vivacious Offida Pecorino, an indigenous white varietal full of verve and charm.

Further west of Ancona we get our first look at the regions that first put the Marche on the wine map – the trio of Verdicchio DOCs.  Given its border with the Adriatic Sea, Marche wines are natural seafood pairing wines, which is especially true of its whites.  The vibrant, citrus-driven Verdicchios have proven to be some of the most distinctive whites made in all of Italy and have received international acclaim for their fresh, inviting style.  And yes, while the Marche is best known for its native varietal wines, growers are experimenting with French grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Syrah like their Tuscan neighbors to the west.  Lunacolo’s quality IGT offerings, among other top Marche producers, suggest that these internationally-styled ‘Super Marches’ are a great match with the Marche terroir.

The Marche is one of the only Italian wine regions to benefit from the combination of high elevations, hillside vineyards, and a cool maritime climate.  This unique landscape and devotion to quality makes the Marche a region to watch closely in the future.  Whether you seek the fresh citrusy style of Verdicchio, the floral elegance of Pecorino, the deeply fruited wines of Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno, or something a bit more modern in style like a richly textured Cabernet, the Marche has something special for every palate.

Marche at a Glance

Major grapes: Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Verdicchio, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pecorino

Principal DOCs/DOCGs: Rosso Conero, Rosso Piceno, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Offida Pecorino

New IGTs: Marche

Area under vine: 20,000 hectares

Climate: Mediterranean with consistent warmth and cooling sea breezes

Main soil composition:  Mixture of clay and limestone

Chief viticultural hazard: High yields

Top producers: Lunacolo, Il Conventino, Fattoria Le Terrazze, Sartarelli, Moroder

Exploring the Steep Terrain of St. Joseph

It is no secret that Montesquieu has long been enamored with the Rhône Valley, a classic destination for wine lovers boasting an abundance of charm and diversity. A journey to the Rhône offers a rich tapestry of experiences, spanning from the village of Vienne just 20 miles south of Lyon, to Avignon in Provence.  It is home to some of France’s oldest vines and most interesting history which has been greatly influenced by the extensive trade and transportation on the Rhône River, dating back to Greek and Roman times.

The Rhône River has shaped the entire region and beyond, with its wares and stories meandering up and down for century upon century. It seems that the rich gastronomic influence of Lyon just to the north trickles south through the Rhône, imparting luxury and finesse as it flows, and in turn the relaxed, sunny demeanor of Provence has made its way north adding a rustic and approachable ambiance to yield a very pleasant balance of refinement and warmth all throughout the valley.

Lovely Lunch Spot: Vineyard View Behind Beau Rivage on the Rhone River in Condrieu

The wines of the Rhône are as diverse as you can imagine—with the north and the south being worlds apart with respect to their climate, soil and topography, as well as the use of the varietals that make up their various wines. These contrasts are great fun, and are not limited to just those between north and south, but within the regions as well.  Compare a 100% Syrah from Hermitage or Côte Rôtie with the blends from Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Or a 100% Viognier from Condrieu or Château-Grillet next to the white blends of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, or 100% Marsanne from Hermitage.  The varations seem endless and the wines are truly fascinating!

Without a doubt the best way to get to know these wines is to travel and experience first-hand the local ambiance with the huge cast of characters this vibrant region offers. There is so much to enjoy in addition to the many glorious wines. You will find historical sites including medieval fortresses and churches, ancient Roman ruins, painted prehistoric caves, and the like. You will find fantastic local lavender, honey, almonds, cheeses, olives, silk, carpets, ceramics and more.

A wonderful and lesser-known way to enjoy both the Northern Rhône and the Southern Rhône, and have easy access to either area, is to stay a bit off the beaten track. Many travelers pass right through the middle Rhône port city of Montélimar, the capital of the Drôme-Provençale département, on their way either north or south through the valley.  However just east of Montélimar, nestled in the Jabron Valley, is the stunning Le-Poet Laval, one of France’s best kept secrets.

Les Hospitaliers Hotel and Restaurant Le-Poet Laval

Le-Poet Laval is a restored fortress, a medieval village built in the 13th century for the Knights of Malta and is one of France’s most beautiful villages, a distinction given by the “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France”, an organization founded in 1982 to acknowledge villages that have sites where the country’s heritage has been preserved, providing havens of culture and architectural treasures. You won’t need any of this information to know you have encountered something truly special, it will simply take your breath away!

Perched high on a hill, the village has sweeping panoramic views of the lavender fields, almond orchards, and farms with horses and cows below.  Constructed in the 13th Century, it feels like stepping back in time as you navigate a maze of alleys, stairs and terraces made of medieval stone.  This walking village has been lovingly restored, and has a lovely hotel, B & B, cafe, museum and bookstore.

Les Hospitaliers is a fanatastic hotel with an excellent restaurant and charming décor—colorful Persian carpets warm up the stark, yet elegant stone walls, and there are warm wood furnishings, many of them antiques, everywhere. There is a lovely pool with a stunning view, and the staff is gracious and accommodating to top it off. This is a gem in the heart of the Rhône, and is a truly rewarding way to experience all the valley has to offer. The art of living is alive and well here!

Rustic Yet Elegant Furnishings Suit the Medieval Ambiance